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Q: How do you attach drywall
and siding?
A: It is anchored to the concealed spacer ties
with threaded screws. Smooth nails are not recommended.
Exterior siding is often attached to a continuous
furring strip, which has been anchored to the
spacer ties. Spacer ties are NOT exposed to the
surface so exterior EIFS or stucco finishes can
be readily applied.
Q: How do I install
baseboard to the Flexx-Block walls?
A: One of the best ways is to rip cut ½"
plywood to a width 2 to 2 ½ " then
screw it in place to the plastic ties along all
the walls (including the partition walls) before
the drywall contractors get there.
Now the drywall contractors can set their ½"
drywall on top of the ½" plywood and
will cut the edge of the drywall sheets accordingly
to suit this height. The result is you have full
wood fastening for nails along the complete wall
surface and the plywood will to be covered by
the baseboard. Other options include fastening
the baseboard with construction adhesives, or
relying on the strength of the drywall by angling
the finish nails in an alternating pattern, securing
the baseboard to the drywall.
Q: Does it cost
more to build a Flexx-Block structure?
A: Typically a home built with Flexx-Block will
cost slightly more than a comparable wood-frame
home. However, much or all of this cost can be
recouped through significantly lower utility and
energy bills, insurance savings and downsizing
of heating and cooling equipment.
Q: How big is a
Flexx-Block block?
A: Blocks are 16" tall and 48" wide
(5.33 square feet of form wall). You can use blocks,
which produce concrete walls from 4" thick
to 12" thick, in 2-inch increments. The insulating
walls are 2" thick. CAUTION! Order blocks
by the Concrete Wall Thickness, not the overall
thickness. For instance, 8" blocks (for an
8" concrete wall) are 12" thick, overall.
Q: How much money can I expect to save on my utility
bills?
A: A study commissioned by the Portland Cement
Association concluded that homes built with ICF
exterior walls offer up to a 50 percent savings
for heating and cooling costs over comparable
wood-frame houses in some climates. This means
that a typical 2,450-square-foot home in the United
States may save approximately $200 in heating
costs and $65 in air conditioning each year. The
larger the house, the larger the potential savings.
Some homes are realizing $1,000 per year in savings!
Q: How high can
I form and pour at one time?
A: There are techniques for forming and filling
commercial walls 30 feet tall and more. Multi-story
buildings are usually formed and filled a story
(9-10 feet) at a time, paying close attention
to proper concrete placement.
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Q: How fast can I place
concrete?
A: Concrete should be placed in 4-foot lifts (passes),
at a rate of 8-feet per hour. For an 8-foot wall,
concrete is placed in 2 lifts. Approximately 30
minutes after placement, concrete will support
its own weight, allowing for the 2nd lift to be
placed above it. CAUTION! If concrete slump exceeds
6" or contains liquefiers, place it in 3-foot
lifts, to reduce the risk of a form failure.
Q: Do the forms float when
concrete is placed?
A: No. The narrow ties are designed to allow unrestricted
concrete flow, thereby minimizing floating. It
is important to follow proper concrete placement
procedures to prevent excessive vibration, which
could result in a broken seal between layers,
allowing concrete leakage.
Q: Should I waterproof
a basement?
A: Waterproofing is recommended for all regions.
Insulating form walls do not prevent groundwater
penetration. Damproofing is only adequate for
extremely dry regions where groundwater is not
present.
Q: What do I use, to waterproof
a basement?
A: A good quality brand of self-adhesive waterproof
membrane (60 mil or heavier) is recommended. LiteForm
can provide a heavy duty peel and stick membrane
that is compatible with the Flexx-Block blocks.
CAUTION! Latex damproofing liquids should not
be used as a substitute for waterproofing. We
shouldn't limit this to self-adhering. Spray-on,
trowel-on, and rigid systems can be used per manufacturer
instructions.
Q: Do I build through a
window/door opening?
A: No. Waste is minimized by installing openings
and bulkheads as the wall are being formed.
Q: How much rebar (reinforcing
steel) do I need?
A: That is determined by local building codes,
structural engineers or the generally accepted
construction practices for your type of structure.
Q: Do I need to use a concrete
pump?
A: No. However, if concrete is placed from a truck,
you must have access to all sides of the structure
so that each 'lift' can be placed evenly. For
above-grade structures, a pump is recommended.
Q: Can the forms be removed?
A: Flexx-Block is designed as a 'stay-in-place'
forming system. The form's insulation actually
bonds to the concrete wall, making removal difficult.
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